Live edge Acadia night stand, built in cherry with a varnish finish. Lacquer, specifically pre-catalyzed lacquer, is considered by many professional woodworkers to be the best finish for hardwood furniture, in terms of balance between beauty, protective qualities and ease of application and care.
Without delving too far into the scientific complexities, pre-catalyzed lacquer uses a catalyst to initiate a chemical reaction that dries even harder than the durable evaporative drying method of traditional lacquer though even lacquer is not invincible and will still scratch from excessive wear and tear.
In addition to abrasion and water resistant properties, lacquer is a thinner finish so it is sprayed on in thin layers.
This creates an ultra smooth, clear and natural look, allowing the wood itself to be the star of the show. Shaker executive desk, built in cherry with a lacquer finish. You will find the lowest gloss, pre-catalyzed lacquer finish on many of our pieces at Chilton Furniture, including those built by Joy Valley Woodworks of Buxton, Maine.
This lacquer is tested to withstand more than 25 of the toughest common kitchen and bath cleaning solutions. A cousin of varnish, polyurethane also provides an extremely protective top coat. Its characteristics vary depending on the base material. In addition to durability, oil-based poly is quite resistant to heat, water and chemicals and comes in a variety of gloss options including satin, semi or high gloss.
Oil-based also has an amber tone that is especially evident in the sunlight, and brings out the richness of the wood. Water-based poly is a newer option. One centuries-old, tried and true finish is shellac. Made of an alcohol solvent combined with secretions from the lac bug of Southeast Asia, this finish dries as a glossy, hard top coat.
Some builders prefer this finish for its durability and protection from abrasions and water damage, as well as its glossy clear or amber appearance and nontoxic, food-safe qualities.
Shellac does have a few kryptonites, however, including heat and alcohol based liquids. Prevention of liquor and even cologne spills is key, and avoiding white heat rings from mugs and plates with coasters and trivets is suggested. For this reason shellac may not be the best finish for a kitchen table.
If beauty is a leading factor for your finish decision, a wax finish is a good place to start. It enhances the natural grains and pores of wood with a soft luster that will not yellow over time. W axes do not penetrate or seep into wood, but provide a protective coating on top of it.
This helps preserve wood in its natural color without oxidizing, but it does not particularly intensify the wood. For this reason, wax is often used as a top coat in combination with oil. Wax and lacquer comparison, shown on ash. To be sure, test further. Try touching a bit of xylene available at hardware and paint stores to a different part of the finish. If the test area gets gummy, you're definitely looking at a water-based finish.
If none of these solvents dissolves the old finish, it has to be one of the reactive finishes one that cures through a chemical reaction such as varnish or polyurethane. You must thoroughly sand scuff up these film finishes before you can apply another coat of the same finish. Or, in cases of severe damage, you have to strip them completely off with a paint-and-varnish remover, then sand and refinish.
Once you know what finish you're facing, you can restore it in one of several ways. Which one of the following you choose depends on the result you want to achieve. Sand the existing finish with extra-fine sandpaper grit or greater or steel wool unless you're putting on a water-based finish, then use gray Scotch-Brite rather than steel wool so you won't end up with tiny rust spots.
Then, remove all dust with a tack cloth and apply another coat of finish, as shown below. It's not necessary that you match the commercial brand of original finish, only the type: shellac, lacquer, water-based, etc. What Finish Is That Anyway? Save Pin FB More. Every poly has its preferred applicator, typically a brush or cloth. Some polys also come in aerosol spray cans. Each polyurethane is unique, thanks to tweaks in its chemical makeup; choose the one that best matches your particular project.
This versatile all-around poly provides good protection on a variety of wood surfaces. Available in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. Combines the durability and ambering of an oil with the fast drying time, low VOC content, and easy cleanup of a water-based product.
Blended with acrylic resins, it goes on milky but quickly dries crystal clear. Not as durable as oil-based polys. Also useful for hiding superficial scratches in previously finished wood. Its thin film offers moderate protection from abrasion.
Available in gloss and satin sheens, and in oil-based and water-based formulations. Stains and protects bare wood with each coat. Before applying to bare wood, use a wood conditioner to ensure even colour. Smooth between coats with steel wool. Available in satin and gloss. Contains UV absorbers that protect the finish and the wood from the sun's rays.
Made with a special blend of oils and resins that allows it to flex as the wood surface expands and contracts. Recoat the finish when it turns dull, typically once a year. Available in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin, and in oil-based and water-based formulas. Acetone-based nail polish remover softens lacquer. Water drops turn wax white in about 10 minutes. If either lacquer or wax are present, strip them before proceeding. Stir the can.
Do this before and during application to evenly blend the ingredients that control sheen and UV resistance. Be sure to follow the label directions for the product you are using. To be certain that the finish is ready to be sanded, sand a small, inconspicuous area first. It is not dry enough to be sanded. Wait at least 30 minutes then test again.
The better the wood preparation, the better the final result. Looking for speed and convenience? Minwax Design Series washes, wood effects and waxes offer new options for bare wood and wood that's already stained. Combine the Minwax Design Series with other Minwax stains to produce on-trend looks, finishes and special effects.
For superior durability and long-lasting beauty, the choice is clear — protective clear finishes from Minwax! Guide to Clear Protective Finishes Protect your project and keep it looking beautiful for years to come.
Protect For Long Lasting Beauty. The gloss level will affect the appearance of your piece, but not its durability. Choosing a Clear Finish. Choosing the best clear finish for your project will depend on a few key factors: Project type: A project that will see heavy use, such as a table top, requires more protection than a project that will be subjected to less wear and tear. Be sure to choose a clear protective finish that is right for your project.
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